Which ropes
with the "9" ?

The "9" must be used with a UIAA certified, flexible, dynamic, single rope, between 9,1 mm and 11.0 mm in diameter.

9,1 ≤ ø ≤ 11


Which carabiners
for the "9" ?

• Install the device using a locking pear-shaped HMS carabiner
•D-shaped carabiners are Prohibited as the rope may get trapped causing the device to malfunction.
•A belay carabiner which prevents cross-loading can be used
.
Locking pear-shaped HMS carabiner
D-shaped carabiner: Prohibited


How to install
the "9" onto the harness ?


Clip the locking pear-shaped locking HMS carabiner onto the belay loop of your harness with the gate on the same side as your brake hand.
Clip the "9" on to the carabiner using the Carabiner Hole (1) with the Top horn (5) and
V-Shaped Slot (3) on the lower side of the device.


how to position
the rope into the "9" ?
• Clip the rope into the pear-shaped carabiner.
• Place the rope on the same side of your body as your braking hand (i.e. on the right-hand side for right-handed people) pass a loop of rope into the device.
Traditional position

The Traditional Position allows for good braking and progressive release of the rope.
• The Traditional Position allows for good braking and progressive release of the rope. • Place the loop of rope behind the Lower Horn (2), this will provide good braking friction
Le brin libre (assureur) doit obligatoirement passer dans la fente en V (3), pour être en position.
The braking side of the rope must pass through the V-Shaped Slot (3) to be in position.
• Check the braking function of the system by giving a sharp tug on the climber's side of the rope.
The rope must be flexible; a stiff ropes may cause the device to malfunction.
It is Prohibited to pass the braking side of the rope through the Circular Hole (4) of the device; always ensure the braking side of the rope passes through the V-Shaped Slot (3).
The rope must not be threaded around the device like a traditional "8" belay device. The rope must be clipped into the pear-shaped carabiner.
Warning
It is Prohibited to attach the "9" directly to the belay.
The "9" must be attached to the belay loop of the harness.
The rope must pass through a directional anchor when bringing up a second or when the leader leaves the belay on a multi-pitch climb.
Directional anchor.


belaying
with the "9"

The"9" has an assisted braking action which will work with a UIAA certified, flexible, dynamic single rope which is between 9.1mm and 11.0mm in diameter.
Taking in rope / the five step method
N.B. always hold the braking side of the rope
• Before use it is essential to check the braking, locking and unlocking functions of the device.

At all times, one hand must hold the braking side of the rope.
Stop
Locking
WARNING: The belayer must be attached to the belay point to avoid the risk of falling if belaying from a ledge
The reserve of rope on the braking side of the rope must be kept below the belay device.
Like taking in rope
Unlock
or
Pull upwards
Pull upwards
Squeeze
hold the rope in place around the Lower Horn (2) of the device using your non-braking hand.
Unlock
Giving out rope
Stop
Locked
You must systematically move the hand on the braking side of the rope down between each sequence of giving out rope.
• To give out rope, the hand on the braking strand of the rope must stay above the device in order to prevent the assisted braking action from locking the rope.
Slide
Slide
Push
Pull
Keep the rope out of the V-Shaped Slot
Pull the climber's side of the rope out of the device, push braking side of the rope into the device
and slide your hand down the climber's side of the rope towards the device to return to the starting position
then slide your hand down the braking side of the rope
Giving out rope

Variation


• It is possible to give out lots of rope by keeping the hand on the braking side of the rope above the device to act as a guide for the rope to keep it out the V-Shaped Slot (3). Rope can be given by pulling the climber's side of the rope through the device whilst allowing the rope to slip through the fingers of the hand on the braking side of the rope.
Slide
Guide hand
Guide hand
Pull the climber's side of the rope through the device whilst keeping the braking side of the rope out the V-Shaped Slot.
Pull
Lowering a climber on a top rope
WARNING: the assisted braking action does not work in this position.
-Changing into this position must either be done in a dynamic way or by releasing the rope from the V-Shaped Slot (3) whilst holding the rope in place around the Lower Horn (2) of the device using your non-braking hand.
NB: always hold the braking side of the rope.
• Using the Top Horn (5).
Using the Top Horn (5) allows the climber to be lowered whilst keeping the hand on the braking side of the rope below the belay device.
-At all times, be careful to keep a good grip on the braking side of the rope.
-Whilst lowering, do not let the rope "jump" off the Top Horn (5).
-Always keep the palm of your belay hand facing into the body.
This is not an assisted braking position. Always keep a grip on the braking side of the rope.
Squeeze
Use both hands to lower the climber
Place the rope behind the Top Horn, release the squeeze
Pull upwards
Copyright : ©2009 Inawa

Simplicity and security :
This new one piece system has both the advantages of mechanical self-braking systems and the simplicity of classical belay devices and descenders.

Simplicité et sécurité :
Ce nouveau système monobloc associe les avantages des systèmes mécaniques
auto-freinants et la simplicité des assureurs-descendeurs classiques.
Double security :
self-locking and smooth braking. A dynamic braking which reduces tension on the anchor points.

Double sécurité :
auto-freinants et souplesse de freinage.
Un freinage dynamique qui a pour effet
de limiter la force appliquée sur les points d’ancrage.

 
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